Creating my own rock climbing holds
Buying my own climbing holds is expensive, and there's no easy way to get exactly the ones I want. So I decided to try making my own, with the help of a few online blogs.
It's a 3-step process:
Each step is described in detail below.
It's a 3-step process:
- Shape the hold.
- Create a mold around the hold.
- Pour your holds.
Each step is described in detail below.
Materials I used:
Tools I used:
- Floral foam (dry), the kind used for arranging flower pieces - can be found at Michael's or flower shops.
- Paint brushes
- Paint thinner
- 100% Silicone, the same stuff used for caulking
- Cheese cloth/gauze
- Craft glue &/ toothpicks
- Sand
- Fiberglass/polyurethane resin, can be found at automotive Canadian Tire stores
- Paint
- Nuts & bolts (3/8")
Tools I used:
- Respirator
- Knife
- WD40
Step 1: Shape the holds
After reading a number of different blogs and tutorials, I found that floral foam is the best material to use for shaping the holds. Alternatives are wood and rocks however it's hard to create a uniform shape as well as etch out fine details. The holds would also be missing the rough texture.
Floral foam on the other hand is very easy to cut, file and smudge into almost any shape, and it provides the mould with a rough texture - just as climbing holds should have. However it's super messy and creates a lot of dust, so gloves and a respirator are a must!
I bought my floral foam at Michael's - $6 for a stack of 6 blocks (9" x 4" x 3"). Make sure to buy the dry foam, the wet foam doesn't work as well.
I decided to start by designing my smaller holds. I began by cutting the blocks into smaller rectangles, and then started to slice the foam into my desired climbing hold shapes. Eventually I just used my hands to shave away layers of foam to create a smooth surface.
After reading a number of different blogs and tutorials, I found that floral foam is the best material to use for shaping the holds. Alternatives are wood and rocks however it's hard to create a uniform shape as well as etch out fine details. The holds would also be missing the rough texture.
Floral foam on the other hand is very easy to cut, file and smudge into almost any shape, and it provides the mould with a rough texture - just as climbing holds should have. However it's super messy and creates a lot of dust, so gloves and a respirator are a must!
I bought my floral foam at Michael's - $6 for a stack of 6 blocks (9" x 4" x 3"). Make sure to buy the dry foam, the wet foam doesn't work as well.
I decided to start by designing my smaller holds. I began by cutting the blocks into smaller rectangles, and then started to slice the foam into my desired climbing hold shapes. Eventually I just used my hands to shave away layers of foam to create a smooth surface.
For my larger block, I used tacky glue to glue together several of the foam blocks, and after leaving to dry overnight I was able to start shaping it too.
Don't forget to leave the back of the holds flat, as they'll be attached to a solid flat wall. Also keep in mind how you intend to mount the holds. Leave space for a large bolt, as well as a small screw if needed. I'm designing my smaller holds for a different purpose (which will be kept secret for now!) so I don't need to take that into account just yet.
Once your hold is complete, indent your bolt head (back side in) into the hold, so once you bolt your hold to a wall it will be sunk in and not in the climber's way.
All in all, I was fine using just a knife and my hands for shaping the foam, however if you're looking to design some fancier holds, a clay sculpting set would come in handy.
Don't forget to leave the back of the holds flat, as they'll be attached to a solid flat wall. Also keep in mind how you intend to mount the holds. Leave space for a large bolt, as well as a small screw if needed. I'm designing my smaller holds for a different purpose (which will be kept secret for now!) so I don't need to take that into account just yet.
Once your hold is complete, indent your bolt head (back side in) into the hold, so once you bolt your hold to a wall it will be sunk in and not in the climber's way.
All in all, I was fine using just a knife and my hands for shaping the foam, however if you're looking to design some fancier holds, a clay sculpting set would come in handy.
Step 2: Create the moulds
Now, we get to create moulds out of our holds! This way we can (hopefully) pour a few holds out of each mould.
I secured my holds to some hard cardboard I found lying around. I used tacky glue, but I imagine toothpicks can also work. I left some space between holds so that I could create flanges for the mould.
I used silicone and paint thinner to create the moulds. I took the long and detailed process of painting the mixture onto my holds layer by layer, as opposed to just creating cardboard walls around my holds and pouring liquid silicone all around. Not sure if it was worth it, I'll get back to you about that one later!
Paint thinner is nasty, so once again - get your gloves and respirator out!
The paint thinner is used to thin the silicone. For my first few layers I added almost 50-50 paint thinner to silicone by volume, so I had a thin mixture that would be able to capture all of the fine details of my hold. My later layers were a lot more viscous. I did 6 layers total, to a thickness of about 1/3".
I left each layer to dry for a few hours before applying the next. Don't make the layers too thick or the outside will dry, but leave the inside wet (and far less strong).
I also added cheese cloth (alternative: gauze) to one of my layers, as recommended by a tutorial. The cheese cloth adds some rigidity to the moulds, and will hopefully prevent them from ripping when the finished holds are being removed. I added cheese cloth by ripping thin strips of cloth and painting them on using the silicone mixture, with a bit of overlap here and there. When applying cheese cloth, make sure to apply it to the entire mould - including the flange.
I secured my holds to some hard cardboard I found lying around. I used tacky glue, but I imagine toothpicks can also work. I left some space between holds so that I could create flanges for the mould.
I used silicone and paint thinner to create the moulds. I took the long and detailed process of painting the mixture onto my holds layer by layer, as opposed to just creating cardboard walls around my holds and pouring liquid silicone all around. Not sure if it was worth it, I'll get back to you about that one later!
Paint thinner is nasty, so once again - get your gloves and respirator out!
The paint thinner is used to thin the silicone. For my first few layers I added almost 50-50 paint thinner to silicone by volume, so I had a thin mixture that would be able to capture all of the fine details of my hold. My later layers were a lot more viscous. I did 6 layers total, to a thickness of about 1/3".
I left each layer to dry for a few hours before applying the next. Don't make the layers too thick or the outside will dry, but leave the inside wet (and far less strong).
I also added cheese cloth (alternative: gauze) to one of my layers, as recommended by a tutorial. The cheese cloth adds some rigidity to the moulds, and will hopefully prevent them from ripping when the finished holds are being removed. I added cheese cloth by ripping thin strips of cloth and painting them on using the silicone mixture, with a bit of overlap here and there. When applying cheese cloth, make sure to apply it to the entire mould - including the flange.
You don't want to make the mould too thick because then it loses its flexibility. This is really important for complicated shapes as you'll want to turn the mould inside out to get a finished hold out of them, and still be able to use the mould again.
The next step is to remove the foam from the mould. This is pretty-self explanatory - rip the cardboard off, and chip away at the foam until it's all gone. It's hard to remove left-over bits but it's quite important as they'll get stuck and possibly damage your first hold otherwise.
I turned my mould inside out and used a fine brush to remove all of the tiny foam particles. I have also read that compressed air/water work well.
The next step is to remove the foam from the mould. This is pretty-self explanatory - rip the cardboard off, and chip away at the foam until it's all gone. It's hard to remove left-over bits but it's quite important as they'll get stuck and possibly damage your first hold otherwise.
I turned my mould inside out and used a fine brush to remove all of the tiny foam particles. I have also read that compressed air/water work well.
Step 3: Pour the holds
The next (and most exciting) step is pouring the holds. After doing some research online, most people used polyurethane and fiberglass resin. Living in Canada, I found it impossible to purchase polyurethane resin for a reasonable price, as most brands were banned due to labelling issues. So I picked up some fiberglass resin as well as some extra hardener at a local hardware store.
I also bought some children's play sand. Sand is used as filler for the resin, mixed in 50-50. The Crayola play sand is very fine, and comes pre-coloured - perfect for the job. Looking forward to my blue holds!
The next (and most exciting) step is pouring the holds. After doing some research online, most people used polyurethane and fiberglass resin. Living in Canada, I found it impossible to purchase polyurethane resin for a reasonable price, as most brands were banned due to labelling issues. So I picked up some fiberglass resin as well as some extra hardener at a local hardware store.
I also bought some children's play sand. Sand is used as filler for the resin, mixed in 50-50. The Crayola play sand is very fine, and comes pre-coloured - perfect for the job. Looking forward to my blue holds!
Once again, the many warning labels may have given you the hint, but fiberglass is dangerous and you'll want to work in a well ventilated environment with an appropriate respirator and gloves. I setup worked in my driveway with a fan blowing the fumes away.
Next step - measure out the sand and resin, mix, and pour your holds.
Next step - measure out the sand and resin, mix, and pour your holds.
My first holds were all shallow and small, so after about 48 hours it was time to pull them out. I had no problem separating the holds from the mould, so reusing the moulds will not be a problem.
The holds themselves were a bit sticky so I left them to dry for a few more days. The picture below captures my very first home-made hold!
The holds themselves were a bit sticky so I left them to dry for a few more days. The picture below captures my very first home-made hold!